Tucked behind a shop full of local crafts and produce is a cafe with a view that will set visitors daydreaming of a slower, saltier way of life.

From this main street perch on the edge of the local hilly landmark called The Nut, you can survey the bay and fishing village below. Much as the first whites here would have done, only with less immediate concern for differentiating between the naval and merchant ships.

These days, the effort goes into choosing between sweet or savoury dishes, and wondering whether scones or brownies will best go with your Grinders coffee.