This is a cellar door with a difference; it feels like an elegant cafe that just happens to have a wine-tasting counter.

The upholstered chairs and warm but discreet colours give it a Euro-feel, helped by its setting in an original 1880s house complete with formal garden, clipped hedges and gravelled entrance.

The man behind it all, Josef Chromy, is a serial entrepreneur responsible for the locally celebrated Blue Ribbon Meats and the development and growth of some of the most significant vineyards in Tasmania. Now he's concentrating on developing estates close to his beloved 'Lonnie', and this place is a natural extension of the Czech sense of hospitality that is his heritage.

Chef Stuart Mullan has previously cooked at premium resorts including Longitude 131, and he serves up a classic set of lunch dishes featuring the best of Tassie ingredients. There's great coffee, interesting wines and lovely gardens in which to walk it off.

It all works — there's a happy buzz here that makes it feel like Sunday lunch all week long.