A good Italian restaurant in a big city hotel? Ecco qua!

It has all the theatre you'd expect from a glamour venue and well-executed Neapolitan-influenced food. You'd never guess this from first impressions — which are that it couldn't possibly work, tucked in a corner of that huge heritage atrium.

If the sight of a waiter in a tight white jacket sliding past with aplomb doesn't lure you in, the towering wine fridge might do it.

You'll be rewarded for your sense of optimism, because they do things just as you'd hope. Suit-filled and buzzy at lunch time, it's more relaxed at night (although it's best to dine a bit later on a Friday night, after the office hordes have finished their socialising downstairs at the GPO).

Perfect for an early meal before the concert at the Recital Hall just down the road. Explore the Italian wines for the full experience.