Those who weigh in on the Balthazar side of the parochial 'which is best' debate (i.e. Balthazar or its twin Pastis in Chelsea) love this Francophile reproduction of a classic bistro for its attention to detail.

For them, a trip to the patisserie next door, with its 'antique' mirrors and breadstands straight out of a Maurice Chevalier movie, is an indispensable part of the weekly routine.

You'll see them, with family and friends, there for weekend breakfasts, juggling the kilo or so of The New York Times on the tiny table along with a bowl of café au lait and a cheese omelette. A couple of nights later they'll be back, for the comfort of a great steak with frites or a bowl of French onion soup. Partisans!