This is the glamorous Melbourne 21st Century version of a hawker stall.

Small and sophisticated in design, it delivers a punchy version of your favourite ModAsia flavours with speed and style.

Teague Ezard’s version of casual eating means everything is designed and you can choose from his pan-Asian culinary agenda. Not quite as punchy or as pungent as the real thing but sometimes it's OK to smooth the edges a little, particularly if you get a small but interesting wine and cocktail list and a well-designed space to enjoy it in.

The narrow shopfront is dominated by walls and ceilings covered with laquered black bamboo, dressed up with transparent ‘ghost’ chairs and a huge red-fringed lampshade.

The pace is fast and the service cheery and helpful.

There are two sittings each night; you might not be able to linger, but the memories should.