This place, at ground level in the artsy quarter of Flinders Lane, somehow manages to feel like a welcoming New York loft. With deceptively simple styling by Pascale Gomes-McNabb, it is the next venture from chef Andrew McConnell (of Three, One, Two fame).

The long hours demand unusual flexibility from both the space and the food, and they deliver effortlessly. Cumulus is just right for breakfast, morning coffee and treat, lunch or dinner. Sit at the bar, at the long counter adjacent to the kitchen, at a high, shared, table - they each have their own pleasures.

Lunch and dinner dishes are brilliantly crafted and complex and designed for sharing, and the wine list does the food justice. Make sure you leave room for dessert, where choices include a bespoke madeleine filled with warm lemon curd. Sigh.

The flexibility extends to the service, too: eat here pre or post a performance, or just make your leisurely way through the menu. The smart floor staff, marshalled by Jayden Ong, will match your rhythms.

(Note, there are no bookings, except for largish groups.)